Aniline leather tanning: how it happens

Pubblicato 01/21/2017 13:48:05
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Aniline leather tanning

Selling raw leather represents a real art of craftsmanship. It is necessary that people will understand how hard it is to classify, for the following sale, such a kind of organic material, covered on one side by hair, with parts of fat or meat still present on the other. The first classification that needs to be done concerns the type of animal, its origin, the kind of livestock. There are major discriminating criteria like the race of the animal, its livestock in stables or on the open and the custom to brand livestock with fire or not. The next step is the datum on the size and weight of the skin at the time of scraping it.

raw leatherPrecious leather

The most precious leather, talking about animals for breeding, is that of calf, up to six months old, bred indoors, since it completely lacks any wounds, creases, abrasions and illnesses, the cheapest one is the one coming from animals that have humpbacks like for instance, zebus, bred in the open, with burnt marks or incisions, that have grown in damp and hot areas with abundant presence of insects. The latter ones are clearly subject to present open or healed wounds, insects bites, scars for burnt marks etc. which will reduce greatly the amount of skin "good to be cut" that is with no defects. After the sale of raw leather comes the stage of tanning. The first stage consists in soaking and greening it, with water and enzymes the leather gets hydrated. Later on comes the hair removing stage which is done using quicklime and sulphide, opening the pores and leaving the hairs drop. Then leather gets "expurgated", which means that is sulphides and lime are extracted, leaving the fibres ready to get chrome tanned or through vegetal extracts.

Re-tannage and greasing

After tanning come the stages of re-tannage and greasing, with possible drum dye, after that comes the drying phase and the following procedures for softening and finishing, finally achieving the finished product, ready to be transformed in footwear, leather goods etc.

From the sale of raw leather up to obtaining a pair of shoes it is a long, hard and crafts job, if we aim to achieve excellent results.

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